Most Likely Causes (Ranked)
The T&P valve opens at 210°F or 150 PSI. Frequent discharge = high pressure, thermostat above 120°F, or no expansion tank.
Bottom drain valve has loose connection, worn washer, or corrosion. Almost always an easy fix.
Top connections loosen from thermal expansion. Corroded dielectric unions common.
Depleted anode rod (3-5 years) leads to tank rust-through. Unrepairable. Average lifespan: 8-12 years.
New or freshly filled tanks cause condensation. Resolves in 24-48 hours.
How to Fix It
Tighten/Replace Drain Valve
$0-15- 1Try tightening with wrench.
- 2If leaking, drain tank and replace valve ($8-15).
- 3Teflon tape threads. Upgrade to brass ball valve.
Fix T&P Issue
$15-350- 1Check thermostat — 120°F.
- 2Test pressure. If high, need PRV ($200-350 installed).
- 3If backflow preventer present, add expansion tank ($40-60).
- 4Never cap a T&P valve.
Replace Water Heater
$800-2,000+- 1Tank corrosion = replacement only.
- 2Standard 40-50 gal: $400-800 + $400-1,200 install.
- 3Tankless: $1,500-3,500, lasts 20+ years.
When to Call a Professional
Never cap T&P valve — explosion risk.
10+ year tank leaking from bottom = prepare for replacement.
Rust-colored hot water = depleted anode rod.
Gas heater near burner = shut off gas immediately.
How to Prevent It
Replace anode rod every 3-5 years ($20-50).
Flush tank annually.
Set thermostat to 120°F.
Install drip pan ($15-25).
Frequently Asked Questions
Tank: 8-12 years, 15+ with anode maintenance. Tankless: 20+.
Valves/fittings: yes, under $50. Tank corrosion: no, replace.
Dripping valve: wasteful. Corroded tank: damage risk. Gas near burner: shut off.
Yes. Power off (breaker/gas valve) and close cold water supply.